My Sumatra Trip Part 1

My plan was to explore three less-known provinces in Sumatra over two weeks: Jambi, Palembang and Bengkulu. I flew out of Singapore to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia. There's no direct flight from Singapore, only K.L. Of course you can fly to Jakarta then go back to Sumatra, but Indonesian schedules are not reliable. I flew Air Asia from K.L. to Palembang, which I later regretted because it's a 6 hour bus ride to Jambi. Then another 22 hour bus ride on rocky roads to reach Kerinci National Park. Whoever said 'half the fun is getting there' never rode on one of these buses. The best way is to fly direct to Jambi, then to Bengkulu and on to Palembang. Yet the purpose of my trip was to visit my sister in Palembang. So that's where the story begins. My sister, Elia, picked me up from Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II airport (long name for small airport). We stayed at the Hotel Swarna Dwipa http://www.hotelswarnadwipa.com/index.php

It's a decent hotel and a good place to relax before embarking on the long journey ahead.

Ampera Bridge at night

We explored Palembang city in the afternoon. I wouldn't recommend it because there are pick-pockets everywhere and they're fearless. I almost had my camera stolen upon arrival but I acted quickly and kicked the thief square in the balls. Ouch! Ampera Bridge spanning the Musi River is one of the city's main attractions. Everything happens around the river. We enjoyed a lovely dinner in a floating restaurant in front of the famous Kuto Besak Fortress. Mmm... then caught a taxi back to the hotel.

In front of Kuto Besak Fortress

Pasar 16 ilir (Traditional Market)

In the morning we toured around Palembang City by taxi. It pays to get a cab from the hotel. It's just not safe on the street. We visited Kuto Besak Fortress. It was built between 1780-1797 to protect the Sultan and his people from Dutch aggression. From there we went to a traditional market 'Pasar 16 ilir', famous for 'Songket' textiles and fish. You can smell market miles away.

Tradional 'Rujak Tumbuk' (mixed fruit with spicy peanut sauce)

  

Our driver and my sister, Elia.

Before visiting the museums on my itinerary, we had a fabulous cup of black coffee in the floating coffee shop. My driver told me about it. And if you enjoy coffee, this is the real deal. We bought the driver a coffee and snack, a real treat for him. He has many children and not much spare money. I think he very pleased to show us around, or at least get out of the house. Very trustworthy and a good companion, which is a rare find in this part of town.  Just be careful.

Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II Museum

The Balaputra Museum

Traditional house Limas

                                                                             At the museum we learned about the Srivijaya Kingdom and Sultan Badaruddin. I had always been fascinated with this side of Indonesia's history. The guide at the Badaruddin Museum was a relic from a forgotten era too. He was old, knowledgeable and very entertaining. He spoke Dutch, English and Indonesian of course. He was high-spirited and explained things n a way even a teenager would find interesting.It wasn't the Guggenheim but it was a good time.

We then went to Balaputra Museum. It has a lot more Srivijaya artifacts but no guide around, so it wasn't as enjoyable. Behind the Balaputra Museum there's a traditional Palembang house called 'Limas'. When we entered it was like stepping back in time. The old house was full of well preserved furniture and antiques. A real unexpected treat.

Old furniture in the traditional house

The Grand Mosque in Palembang

We still had many more places to see and things to do. We went to the Grand Mosque but couldn't enter because we weren't dressed appropriately. We stopped, took some pictures then headed to the next place on my list: the market on the other side of Musi River. I took some beautiful pictures of life on the banks of the river. Just candid shots of people doing everyday things. Very natural stuff.

Man bathing in the river

I saw a man bathing in the filthy river, a young couple enjoying the river view, a boy jumping a fence, a girl washing clothes and kids swimming and playing and laughing. All I could think of was how wonderful and natural it all looked... and hepatitis.


I was worried about the germs and disease but they were only concerned with cleaning and having fun. What a simple life! Elia didn't want to go to the market with me. I wanted to see more scenes of daily life till the sun went down. Traveling by yourself isn't recommended. So I hired a trustworthy 'Ojek man' (motorbike) near the hotel, negotiated a price and kept going.

One of the kids playing in the river

A girl washing clothes by the river bank

Floating houses means no lawns to mow.

A couple enjoy an afternoon by the river

A boy jumping a fence

Market workers filling up boats and canoes with supplies.

I arrived at the local river market, which is like at the floating markets in Thailand. In the morning there's so much activity. Scores of small boats, canoes and sampans came in from many different areas. The boats were laden with fresh fruits and vegetables, songket textiles, art and crafts to sell. On the return journey they would take rice, cooking oil, provisions, clothes and sandals for sale or trade up the river. I watched lines of men carry goods twice their weight. They ducked and weaved while babies screamed inside boats. Like an army of well trained ants.

I sat and watched people go in out of the boats, just taking pictures and saying hello.


They thought I was a journalist from SCTV, their favourite TV station who often come to do a story about local life on the river. I was just intrigued to see how ordinary people simply live. It's a million miles away from life in Singapore.

After a long day sightseeing, I returned to the hotel to find my sister, Elia, ready for another short trip. First a refreshing swim in the pool. Just what we needed!
                                                                                                                                         

One of beautiful entrances to Siguntang Hill

We went Siguntang Hill to visit another piece of Indonesian history. During the Srivijaya era, the hill was considered a holy place, where thousands of Buddhist Monks came to pray. Or that's what the locals told me. There are many sacred graves on top of the hill, including one belonging to the Srivijaya King - Sigentar Alam. I wanted to avoid the graves but the guard said, "It is taboo! Once you visit, you must ask for a blessing." I nodded and thought, or what? Beg for a blessing or find a grave and crawl into it. That will work. The scenery was beautiful from the top of Siguntang Hill and quite. In a strange sort of way I felt blessed to be alive.

Traditional Palembang costumes

We hurried back to Rif Park in the city and watched the majestic sunset. It was the perfect end to the first leg of my journey. As the sun sank slowly over the horizon, I put my arm around my sister and thought how good it was to see her again. Now back to the hotel for some rest, pack my bag and get ready for the loooooong trek to Jambi.


To be continued...